tuning a bike old Part 3:
ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKE CANTILEVER
In previous post gave a good boost to the development of the old bike, change the camera and teach you to adjust the hub . and also change the rear tire ...
But there are still more things Pending: Today we will review and regulate the brakes.
Cantilever brakes are.
examinees, it is important to see that the pads are not worn.
of little use to move a long time ruled the brakes as I will explain, to have to replace a few days the shoes and having to repeat the adjustment process.
see that to act, it must be pretty run of the brake levers.
As I like the brakes act as soon as possible, we will regulate them.
In this case we see that the shoes can zoom in or out of the rim by loosening a nut.
We also see it on the opposite side, the most visible, an allen key hole.
counterforce This serves to loosen and tighten the nut.
way we avoid the full force of the union is made to brake sheath the bike and we can cause some damage.
We can also give some guidance to the shoe while tightening the nut.
has set for us to put the shoe higher or lower, give inclination to stem that supports it, to stick out more or less to bring in or out shoe tire ... just loosen the nut and tighten with the correct position of the caliper on the rim.
Of course, by loosening the nut can also extract the shoes with their offspring to replace them with new ones.
is important before proceeding with this adjustment, consider the rotation of the wheel. In this case, the wheel may be slightly out of alignment for two reasons.
One is that the spokes are slightly misaligned and the pendulum wheel slightly, so that at one point is very close to the pad on one side and another is totally separate.
We also saw, if we move the wheel sideways, I had some slack. This is because the socket was loose.
already tight.
In any case, even if it's a new tire, you can always have a slight pendulum and we must examine how it behaves well the wheel.
Although we use an open end wrench to manipulate the brake adjustment nut, I prefer to use a key ring, star or closed.
For embraces the entire head of nut and is more difficult than the mark or damage.
In this case, we have this key on one hand is open and the other closed, with the measurement of 10mm.
A wrench is also possible to use it ... but as it tends to get out of adjustment and this nut will have to adjust it several times over the life of the bike, it is best to use a key set the correct size to avoid damaging the nut.
allen wrench will also use more professional than I usually wear the tools of the bike.
is better because it has the longer arm, so that more force to compensate for the other key and also allows us to better target the caliper while tightening the nut.
To adjust the brakes, we must consider, as I said, the pendulum of the rim to make the shoes are as close to it without touching it. This must be done by both sides.
is important to go by trial because squeezing the brake pads the sites are further away, they can get too low and too tight at the edge of the rim or even excel under it.
go is simply a matter of doing tests and not to the final tightening to be sure it's okay.
The aim is to ensure that shoes are perfectly aligned with the rim, not rub against it by turning the wheel, and squeezing the brake shoe on each side does not extend beyond the rim.
should push it as square as possible on the rim and thus the wear will be uniform and will last much longer.
Finally, the two shoes have to play along the rim or take the same route (for that we can find a point on the rim where the two pads are at the same distance thereof). And we press the brake. If it is near one before the other, we can still act on the tension screw.
In another post I saw on the brakes V brakes, locking screw was on both sides, one in each arm of the brake. Now we see only one. Enough.
If anyone does not know what it is, look at the third picture of the post: it is the small screw protruding below the brake caliper. Handled with a star screwdriver.
tighten the screw to the arm that is closer to the rim or loosened to separate, in which case the opposite arm caliper closer to the rim.
After each adjustment, repeatedly pressing the brake lever to the brake arms to occupy its normal position without tension.
is also important that we can easily open the brakes:
Both other system that we saw in this, we see that it can remove the cable from one side to the brake is opened.
This is in order to remove the wheels.
If we let the brakes too tight, may have to be tinkering with the regulation of the shoes on the street, where we have a flat tire and have to remove the wheel in the street .
It is important to check now, we're quietly in our workroom or at home.
If we can not remove the cable to open the pliers, gently remove the pads should until we can take the cable to release the clips.
still have to make another adjustment on the brake, you have to vary the position of the spring rod ...
But we found a piece of brake is broken and the first thing we need to repair ... That's already a topic for another post.
0 comments:
Post a Comment