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Digital thermostat. Digital thermostat. How to install digital thermostat. Regular temperature

digital thermostat

We saw in the previous post how to keep a heater . We will continue with the issue of domestic air conditioning and today we will talk about an interesting device: the digital thermostat or thermostat.

is a machine that will allow us regulate the temperature of a room by connecting it to an air conditioner or heater.

as scheduled, will be used for cold or heat and can also set it at certain times the temperature is higher or lower than others . And of course ... many programs that we can choose to not have to be programmed continuously.

and also has additional features such as key "manual" that allows poner otra temperatura diferente a la programada de modo temporal, sin anular la programada; La función de espera, que nos permite que el aparato espere uno o dos minutos antes de conectarse tras el apagado y que permite que el aparato que regula no trabaje más de la cuenta…

Normalmente, se utiliza dejándolo fijo en la pared y conectándolo directamente a la red, para lo cual sólo hay que taladrar en el lugar deseado en los lugares que la plantilla que trae indica, meter los tacos y atornillar el aparato… Yo he hecho una variación:

I have it connected as if it were an extension cord with a switch, only instead of switch I connected the thermostat. This has its advantages and disadvantages:

The main advantage is that if we regulate the temperature of a room, we have the thermostat fully portable: just have to plug it into another room and ready.

can also place it close to where we are. Thus the thermostat thermometer detects the temperature of the place near us and not the other side of the room, getting more welfare.

The main drawback is that to be mounted on a laptop, is capable of receiving a blow that can break.

I will say that you do not see any advantage to this device, since often have built-in thermostat heaters and air conditioners also ...

But with this device achieve a temperature control more accurate, especially for heating, because the heaters have a thermostat near resistance and more to measure temperature, measure the temperature of the device.

And, of course, we can put any type of stove for easy and although it has no thermostat, our thermostat will turning on and off when needed.

Even in summer, you can connect to a ventilator at night so that when cool to move the night, off and on again if the temperature rises again ...

The cost of these devices is usually very low ... mine cost me about 6 €, and as you can see it and use ...

extension to install as you just have to do with an extension or fabricároslo yourselves with a cord of suitable thickness to use you and connecting you going to give a female plug on one end and a male on the other. We'll have to peel a section of the sleeve and cut one of the poles, which is where we make the joint.

You can also use two separate pieces of wire connecting the pins on the ends and the other connects the thermostat. I have attached the apparatus of this second form.

you cut one wire and conectáis to the two terminals or connectors. If you use two pieces of cable, the cable does not act to cut electricity as you put together the third terminal, or if it had more than two blades together unis.

A clarification: the thermostat acts as a switch and as such, just cut a power pole, which is why we see only three connections: two are for a cable from the same pole, which is connected or disconnected with the programmer and the third is to connect the other pole of the current, if the cable is cut, the two pieces are joined to the third terminal, as I said earlier.

I, for safety, I attached the cables to the chassis by a wire thermostat:

through the battery compartment, a hole that would serve to wall mounting. I take this opportunity to insert around the wire and cables are not hanging only from the terminals. And minimize the risk of leaving them.

And there is only insert the batteries, put the time and day and start programming.

Mine has 10 factory programs that can not be modified, but has many others that we can schedule them at will.

may seem at first a little complicated, but it is very easy and you take the trick away.

I'm not going to describe how to program it, because each one can have his own way of doing this and mine is not exactly very modern. I only enough that you read your instructions and so you have no problem ...

Now we have the house warm in winter when we get home, have a cozy room when we go to get up or just can use a stove or heater cheaper, that does not have built-in thermostat, without risk of heat over the account and burning out.

and allow us to rationalize electricity consumption to regulate power without excessive temperature and only at times in which we are using.

More information: pasarlascanutas .

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home accessory chain assembly. Riding bike chain. chain mounting tool

MOUNTING FIXTURE CHAIN \u200b\u200b

We have seen repeatedly that the tools that enable or facilitate a particular job are not always expensive, sophisticated and difficult to have ... Today we will see a typical case of a "tool" (It's so simple, I do not know if you call well in this fixture) that will greatly facilitate the assembly of the bike chain.

already seen, in fact, that the chain is an ongoing subject to wear and require maintenance.

is appropriate to proceed regularly and particularly after a certain mileage to measure in order to check for wear and replace if necessary. For that matter, we can give it a thorough cleaning.

When I published the post on the chain and its replacement, I spoke of a tool, a sort of wire hook, which is responsible for keeping together the final links in order to only have to deal with putting the chain tool pin to re-unite.

This accessory is relatively easy to do. In fact, it could take many forms.

I'll explain the method I use if I want to do so.

Of course, you must seek for a strong wire with a view to the same tension on the string you do not open it.

I have understood that for this purpose, radios often use discarded bicycle wheels. ;

Since I had no radio ... no hand loose, I used the wire.

course, depending on the thickness, stiffness and length you do them, will behave in a completely different, so I recommend making a couple of tests and you to stay with you get better.

This product should yield slightly under the weight of the chain, but just enough so that we can make some correction. The rim, which we in the center helps to make it more elastic, less deformed after use and also serves as a handle.

In my case, I had a great ... but as he had on the bike loose in the bag I always carry on the rear carrier, has ended up lost and I have to do another.

Hence advantage to construct and explain the procedure.

If you choose a soft wire, you can shape it easily by hand or with pliers ... but possibly also deform as easily when you get in the chain ... So here's how to shape a stiff wire and strong.

I have begun to straighten wire with screw table.

The procedure is exactly the same that we use to straighten the copper biquad antenna.

then we'll make the loops at the ends:

Volume one hammer and screw table, with the jaws slightly opened and put the area to turn on the jaws and I hitting the finer side of the hammer in the center of the hole, gently, while I move the wire to release the smooth curve .

We measure and mark the center wire. With the same procedure used for the ends, we will beat with wire-load while we moving.

Once the fold is started and see which is more or less symmetrical, we can use a tube of iron or copper. In my case, I had a motorcycle shaft and fixed to the workbench.

Catching the wire at the ends, end to surround the shaft until it has a shape that suits us.

And, finally giving way, we again use the screw table and hammer to make the arched arms.

This form will even give up a little, the side hooks are not easily shed by the end of the chain.

Give a final check with a file to the ends of the wire, if we carry this accessory in your backpack, not tear us plan a raincoat or the same pack with a sharp barb.

If you see that the hooks are too big and hard to put it and remove the chain, simply cut it with bolt cutters, a hacksaw or file.


To use it, would suffice as I said before, insert the hook contraption near the ends of the chain, thus eliminates stress on the links we have to unite. Would only place the chain tool and re-insert the pin to leave the closed chain and ready for use.

A simple accessory, but ye shall certainly at fault when you go to disassemble your bike chain Be ready and be at one on hand before opening the chain!

Links With quick-crazy or we can make the process of opening and closing the chain without using chain tool ... But this is already the subject of another post not miss it!

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Cleaning computer screen or TFT. Remove dust and stains brake monitor

Cleaning laptop screen or LCD

is inevitable, however careful we are, that computer screens are dirty.

In the best case, be covered with a thin layer of dust that will prevent look good.

Consider first what is not to do:

We must never use abrasives or specific glass. The screens are not glass and glass products ideal for possibly leave the screen to throw ...

Nor should it dip it more essential as the inner layers of the screens are built with a porous material. Any
insignificant liquid that could be brewing over the edge, would penetrate the screen leaving an indelible and permanent.
Beware of the excess fluid, while being specific screens and monitors.

easily scratched, so we must avoid using rags, paper, etc., that can scratch.
Even if we use very soft, we must ensure that they are completely dry.
The powder having the same screen and in itself acts as an abrasive.

Following these three tips, see what we can do:

If the screen is only dust, we can use a bike pump wheel to apply a jet of air to boot a first layer of dust .
We will give the jet air across the screen being careful not to touch it.

But you can think of trying to remove dust blowing fog ... We can take that hit over the dust, and saliva, which will end to dirty the screen.

If dust has accumulated quite a while, it is normal to feel a bit stuck by the same pollution.

Then we can use a commercial cleaner ... even sell their cloth.

also come in handy wipes are marketed for cleaning lenses and glasses.

Some even says that the wipes to clean babies' asses are great, but that I would as a last resort.

If disponéis of anything specific or lens wipes ... I use a soft toilet paper, cut generously.


The mojo in water. If distilled water, much better, because tap water has lime and minerals which upon drying leave traces on the screen if not dried off properly.
But
can be done with warm tap water.

The first is to wash your hands well to prevent any grease on fingers or hands.
Otherwise, the remedy may be worse than the disease.

then wet it thoroughly toilet paper neatly folded.

I scurried all we can.
Just a drop will escape the screen bothers us.


can even get a piece of role in both hands and squeeze it thoroughly.


can also ensure that no leak covering this piece of paper with a dry. It's what I do.

We had then the screen, holding her hand behind the other if necessary.

should not squeeze, simply slide gently moistened paper from top to bottom.


After a last, we take another paper, also doubled and we repeat the movement.


skirt across the screen to prevent accumulated dust is right on the edge.


So a couple of passes, we will have removed all the abrasive dust and can dry.

This'll take another piece, without having previously wet to dry any residual moisture.

Emphasize any traces of paper that may remain attached to the screen.

The disadvantage of this process is that it leaves an antistatic layer on the screen and the dust begins to build up again soon, but suffice to repeat at some time.

is important that toilet paper is very soft.

can also use a clean cotton cloth, lint-free, type sheet. But to assure you that is 100% cotton fiber for arañaría the screen!

After the process, the screen (as was seen in the second photo) has been flawless (the first picture of the post) and again ready for use.

Indeed, if you feel that the screen was dirty look at the role have used.

This system of paper and distilled water, I use it before the initial publication of the article, for more than year and a half and the screen displays the impeccable appearance of the first day, not a scratch .

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me.

information here

and here

So, ... A clean monitors and LCD screens!

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Repair broken. Adjust brake bike. Brake Part heading. Mount brakes. Bike Fit

tuning an old bike Part 4:

Brake Repair broken piece. Final adjustment of brakes.

I already indicated how to regulate pads to act both at once, and correctly positioned on the rim and that further fine tuning was necessary to act on the adjustment screw located on one side ...

But about the setting: we see that by acting on the adjustment screw, do not notice any difference. Theoretically, the shoe should zoom in or out of the tire, but it is not.

So let's remove the brake arm in the screw to see what happens:

Remove the Allen screw that secures the arm to the sheath and immediately see the problem:

the plastic piece where the screw is housed regulator has cracked the side side. To be the broken area on the side opposite the visible, not what we appreciated . We study how the piece is assembled with a view to repair.

see that the outer reinforcement can put as much as we want, because it will not interfere. But inside we do need to avoid anything that stands out, as will in the spring.

cleaned the part with alcohol and increase the separation of the broken area by opening a bit with a toothpick. So we can even scrape inner edges of the broken area.

add some specific adhesive rigid plastic and keep it tight with a rubber band while the glue hardens. The gum comes better than a clip, for example, because it gives a uniform pressure.

Anyway, we will enhance the piece so it will not break again.

We are going to use a glue very strong and elastic, two component epoxy type and cover the piece out.

Next, let nylon thread winding tight, to stay in power and use force.

Finally, cover with another layer of glue and nylon thread.

As not available at the time of nylon thread, I used regular thread. Anyway, is impregnated with the glue and everything is made a part. We put layers of glue and wire to achieve a consistent reinforcement.

Actually a couple of layers to three, there will be more than enough and the result is more aesthetic than if we put too much.

After drying the piece, hardly going to break through this area.

It also could have done with fiberglass and resin, but for a piece so small it is not worth buying these products because they do not have.

At the time of installation, I see more you tighten or loosen the adjustment screw, the shoe is scraping away. So we will have to mount the brake spring by inserting the pin in another hole.

Incidentally, to mount the brake, I decided to insert in the brake arm of the repaired part and the spring (by inserting the end of it into the hole in the plastic part). And yet the whole mounted, we can put the item on your site inserting the spring pin of one of the three holes.

We have seen that has three positions or holes and is usually placed in the plant. In this case, we must place it in the bottom position, to pull the least ... As we have to remove the caliper away from the rim.

But if your out the opposite case, maybe we should loosen the twang that holds the cable to the brake arm to achieve we give the game enough to put the pivot of the spring in the hole.

But I say, in this case, was enough to put it in the lower pivot and no further adjustments needed, the two pads are perfectly aligned and do not rub.

And if properly symmetrical, we could always play a little screw. Now you act the part to be repaired.

I only have to review and adjust the transmission: chain, plates, sprockets and derailleurs. We will see in another post.

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Cantilever brakes. Cantilever review. Cantilever regulate.

tuning a bike old Part 3:

ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKE CANTILEVER

In previous post gave a good boost to the development of the old bike, change the camera and teach you to adjust the hub . and also change the rear tire ...

But there are still more things Pending: Today we will review and regulate the brakes.

Cantilever brakes are.

examinees, it is important to see that the pads are not worn.

of little use to move a long time ruled the brakes as I will explain, to have to replace a few days the shoes and having to repeat the adjustment process.

see that to act, it must be pretty run of the brake levers.

As I like the brakes act as soon as possible, we will regulate them.

In this case we see that the shoes can zoom in or out of the rim by loosening a nut.

We also see it on the opposite side, the most visible, an allen key hole.

counterforce This serves to loosen and tighten the nut.

way we avoid the full force of the union is made to brake sheath the bike and we can cause some damage.

We can also give some guidance to the shoe while tightening the nut.

has set for us to put the shoe higher or lower, give inclination to stem that supports it, to stick out more or less to bring in or out shoe tire ... just loosen the nut and tighten with the correct position of the caliper on the rim.

Of course, by loosening the nut can also extract the shoes with their offspring to replace them with new ones.

is important before proceeding with this adjustment, consider the rotation of the wheel. In this case, the wheel may be slightly out of alignment for two reasons.

One is that the spokes are slightly misaligned and the pendulum wheel slightly, so that at one point is very close to the pad on one side and another is totally separate.

We also saw, if we move the wheel sideways, I had some slack. This is because the socket was loose.

already tight.

In any case, even if it's a new tire, you can always have a slight pendulum and we must examine how it behaves well the wheel.

Although we use an open end wrench to manipulate the brake adjustment nut, I prefer to use a key ring, star or closed.

For embraces the entire head of nut and is more difficult than the mark or damage.

In this case, we have this key on one hand is open and the other closed, with the measurement of 10mm.

A wrench is also possible to use it ... but as it tends to get out of adjustment and this nut will have to adjust it several times over the life of the bike, it is best to use a key set the correct size to avoid damaging the nut.

allen wrench will also use more professional than I usually wear the tools of the bike.

is better because it has the longer arm, so that more force to compensate for the other key and also allows us to better target the caliper while tightening the nut.

To adjust the brakes, we must consider, as I said, the pendulum of the rim to make the shoes are as close to it without touching it. This must be done by both sides.

is important to go by trial because squeezing the brake pads the sites are further away, they can get too low and too tight at the edge of the rim or even excel under it.

go is simply a matter of doing tests and not to the final tightening to be sure it's okay.

The aim is to ensure that shoes are perfectly aligned with the rim, not rub against it by turning the wheel, and squeezing the brake shoe on each side does not extend beyond the rim.

should push it as square as possible on the rim and thus the wear will be uniform and will last much longer.

Finally, the two shoes have to play along the rim or take the same route (for that we can find a point on the rim where the two pads are at the same distance thereof). And we press the brake. If it is near one before the other, we can still act on the tension screw.

In another post I saw on the brakes V brakes, locking screw was on both sides, one in each arm of the brake. Now we see only one. Enough.

If anyone does not know what it is, look at the third picture of the post: it is the small screw protruding below the brake caliper. Handled with a star screwdriver.

tighten the screw to the arm that is closer to the rim or loosened to separate, in which case the opposite arm caliper closer to the rim.

After each adjustment, repeatedly pressing the brake lever to the brake arms to occupy its normal position without tension.

is also important that we can easily open the brakes:

Both other system that we saw in this, we see that it can remove the cable from one side to the brake is opened.

This is in order to remove the wheels.

If we let the brakes too tight, may have to be tinkering with the regulation of the shoes on the street, where we have a flat tire and have to remove the wheel in the street .

It is important to check now, we're quietly in our workroom or at home.

If we can not remove the cable to open the pliers, gently remove the pads should until we can take the cable to release the clips.

still have to make another adjustment on the brake, you have to vary the position of the spring rod ...

But we found a piece of brake is broken and the first thing we need to repair ... That's already a topic for another post.

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misaligned bicycle brakes V-Brake Fix. Set V brake bike brake. Riding bike brakes. Adjusting brake repair brakes

ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR BRAKE V-BRAKE

Amig @ s: another interesting post. I already explained on another occasion how they fit the mechanical disc brakes of the bike.

example I got my own bike.

But I have another bike, folding type, which has V-brakes, which are much more popular for its economy and simplicity.

The thing is that since I bought the bike, I noticed that the brakes were not going well: I like to start acting as soon as you start to pull the levers .... But is that not giving you more or less game play ... there was always a slight touch of the blocks against the rim.

I tried loosening and tightening of all possible ways the two screws that have to adjust the brakes ... but it was useless.

So finally I decided, using a puncture repair, "we will see in another post, of course, happy to remove the brakes, see how they work and thus see how to adjust ... And they were poorly assembled! As this is something that you can also occur to you as soon as I decided to publish the post.

I must say that this post I made entirely with that soil tools always carry the bike. I intend to demonstrate that these tools despite its light weight and compact size, are perfectly valid for us out of any situation ... but, of course, we must practice and know how to use them.

Actually the problem is not that bad are mounted in itself, but by loosening the adjustment screw more than necessary, the part which acts on disturbs the spring and the screw does absolutely nothing.

Anyway, when I bought the bike, and came well.

Basta soltar el cable del freno de los mismos y ver que estos están totalmente sueltos, cuando en realidad deberían permanecer separados con cierta tensión para, justamente, separar las zapatas de la llanta cuando no se usen.

Así que empezamos por eso mismo: liberar los frenos del cable.

El lado derecho, visto desde la posición de estar subidos en la bici, se saca fácilmente apretando los frenos y extrayendo el cable por una ranura in the part.

is an ingenious system that allows quick release of brakes in the event of a puncture, for example, and then reassembling in an instant.

On the other side, we should drop cable completely loosen the screw. As we see in the picture, I'm back to tighten the screw with cable clamp nut to prevent losing them in an oversight.

Sometimes DIY tasks may seem simple and yet, from complications of the same process or because there is something that we go so far prevented us work, we have to drop it and then doing the final assembly, we may find we have lost screws .... This is solved as well: back to them after loosening the set pieces.

Well, we released the two sides of the brake, which will now call arms, we must proceed to drop the fork of the bike.

must be done with care because the pieces can be dropped, falling to the ground and miss.

Or is disassembled before we had set in place and we have trouble reassembling.

We see that the piece is a kind of ring with a notch. Just above this notch is where the adjustment screw acts. It also has a hole that is where it engages a pivot spring tension, which goes on top.

and covering tension spring and washer, and making them properly focused, is a circular piece of plastic (black color in the photo), a kind of washer or cap with a hole through which come forth other end of the pier.

When the arm to the fork, we see that there are three positions to enter this end of the pier that stands out.

We can see even with the brake set if you look.

As needed tension more or less original, we will pick a hole or another.

In principle, we can assemble the two arms of the brake With the end of the spring pivot or inserted into the center hole.

But first we have to ensure that the adjustment screw is pushing on the washer, or rather, the groove that it is (otherwise, I'd like to start).

One thing more: to remove the right arm of the brake, I saw the washer control was slightly deformed.

not turned in its housing and screw passes over the slot adjustment washer, to be somewhat sunken edge.

So while we did the same with the other, the screw fails to act on it, passing overhead.

So with a few taps of the hammer on the screw table, and straightened slightly and is perfect and ready for assembly.

This photo shows how the arm was montaldo: we clearly see that the adjustment screw not Notch affects the regulation of the washer to rotate to tighten or loosen the screw.

Here, if the washer is properly installed, is free and as they mount, the spring will cause the screw to rest on the edge of the slot.

Now everything in place and well positioned, we can screw the piece to the fork.

Now we see clearly that the spring works, then squeeze the clamp against the wheel and see that strength to do something separate, something that had not at all and was doing what was produced by friction.

And we find that we can act on the adjustment screws with the caveat that enclose the screw to loosen notch too.

assembly hereby : Temporarily tighten the lugs, but not what I said before, it is necessary to loosen the screws that hold them to rotate and thereby facilitate the assembly and disassembly the two arms of the brake.

Now put some in place and the screws look slightly ... still have the final adjustment.

then assemble the brake cable, so yes and we can see better if we placed the pads correctly.

have to press the rim through the center and well aligned with the rim . There must be more outlets or recessed at one end or another.

Tested this, we can proceed to press them, bearing in mind that when doing the final tightening, usually rotated slightly in the direction of tightening, and we must compensate.

It is very simple with a couple of tests, I will be perfect.

And finally, is the adjustment of the cable. If you have placed in the same position it was initially, most likely it is perfect and only has to act on the cable adjuster to get the clamps are separated enough.

If we see that one of the two shoes tend to fall grazing the rim to release the brake, give a bit of tension on that side tightening the adjustment screw and loosen the the opposite side ...

At a time when the brakes will perfect and will never again touch the rim when not tightened.

see that in time we have left the brakes, not as the first day, but optimal.

now is very simple regular compensation of the two arms and they act simultaneously. And after carrying out his function back to normal position without producing any unwanted friction.

There was no need bring the bike to any workshop and more importantly, we learned more about the operation of the bike, so that we can also repair in case of failure when we caught on the seafront.

I encourage you to examine your bike. Without fear. Curious. and you learn what each thing.

Many parts you can not disassemble them, because they require specialized keys hard to find (the makers have thought of everything to maintain the services working technicians).

But we can perform basic and necessary adjustments in vital parts of the bike. As I showed when we adjust the front derailleur and rear the direction , fork, etc.